Liocheles (Dwarf Wood Scorpions) Care Guide:

Relevant species:

Liocheles australasiae, Liocheles waigiensis.

Basic Care:

Venom Potency -

Liocheles venom has not been thoroughly researched (as with most low-potency genera) so it is hard to give a value - LD50 unknown.

Potential envenomation side effects may include: local pain, inflammation, swelling, itchiness/red skin, slight burning sensation, allergic reaction and anaphylaxis (extreme allergic reaction).

 

Enclosure size -

10cm(L) x10cm(W) x10cm(H) - 20cm(L) x20cm(W) x 20cm(H)

 

Substrate - 

3" Deep maximum, they are a semi-arboreal/terrestrial species (likes to both hide on vertical objects and hide on the surface underneath objects).

Ensure substrate is a forest soil or coco fibre, not any type of bark, chips or anything else.

 

Temperature and Humidity - 

Temperature should be 27°C - 32°C/80°F - 90°F

Humidity should be between 75% RH - 85% RH. The substrate should not leak water when squeezed, a few drops are fine as long as it's not a lot.

 

Feeding - 

Offer food once per week for adults, and offer up to twice per week for anything less than 3i. Offer food once per week if kept solitary, twice per week if kept communally.

2i - Feed redrunner nymphs or pinhead crickets.

3i - Attempt to feed small, live prey such as small redrunners or small crickets. If the scorpion does not take to the prey, try pre-killing it. 

4i + - Feed live prey, no larger than 3/4 the size of the scorpion. If near pre-moult, no larger than 1/2 the size of the scorpion. 

If your scorpion does not eat for a long time (up to a year), do not stress, scorpions have a very slow metabolism; if they are not hungry they will not eat. You can always try offering different food sources, or just waiting an extra week before attempting to feed.

Best feeder insect options: Redrunners, crickets, locusts. These work best for semi-arboreal/arboreal species.

 

Solitary or Communal? -

Liocheles species can be kept communally, as long as each member is fed regularly. Failure to do so can result in cannibalism. There are plenty of resources that say these species do great in communal setups, however in my experience it can be a hit or miss.

Cannibalism, even if the scorpions are well fed, can still occur no matter the conditions.

 

Hides -

Always keep at least one hide in a solitary enclosure, and 3+ in a communal enclosure.

 

Water bowls -

Scorpions do not need water bowls, they receive most of their water intake from their prey. With arid scorpions, spray the side of the enclosure (glass/plastic/acrylic/material used for the enclosure) with a bit of water every 3 weeks so they can have the opportunity to drink. With humid species, they will drink from the substrate or side of the enclosure if necessary. Water bowls, if anything, are just an extra risk.

 

 

 

 

Extra information -

 

Ultra-Violet Light/Radiation - 

Avoid using UV torches/blacklights on your scorpions. Only ever use them to find your scorpion in the event of having to open the enclosure, or to take some quick photos. This is due to ultra-violet radiation being detrimental to a scorpions health. 

A scorpion's exoskeleton will fuse to it's body, resulting in the scorpion struggling to move or dying during moult. 

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