Scorpion Breeding Guide:

This page is here to inform you on how we breed our scorpions, feel free to follow it so you can attempt to breed your own scorpions.

This guide is just how we breed our scorpions, some breeders do it the same way/a similar way to how we do it, some do their own thing completely differently. This guide is purely anecdotal.

Now before we get into the breeding guide, lets go through the list of parthenogenetic species (species which females reproduce asexually - without a male):

  • Tityus columbianus 
  • Tityus metuendus 
  • Tityus serrulatus 
  • Tityus stigmurus 
  • Tityus trivittatus 
  • Tityus uruguayensis 
  • Tityus confluens
  • Ananteris coineaui 
  • Hottentotta caboverdensis 
  • Hottentotta hottentotta 
  • Liocheles australasiae
  • Lychas tricarinatus

There may be some we have missed out, but there are all species that we have data for. There are reports of some other species being parthenogenetic (such as Heterometrus longimanus) however these have not been scientifically proven and are just anecdotes from other keepers. There are also some reports that the Cuban locality of Centruroides gracilis are parthenogenetic, however we cannot confirm or deny this.

 

 

Now, Onto The Breeding Guide:

 

We recommend using a 30x30x30cm (12"x12"x12") enclosure for all breeding purposes, other than species that are 3" in length (telson to carapace) - in this case we recommend a 20x20x20cm (8"x8"x8") enclosure. These will be perfect for fossorial/terrestrial/semi-arboreal species. Ensure you can see through the enclosure fairly well to ensure that you do not need to disturb them to be able to check on them, as you will be doing this frequently.

 

  • For all our breeding projects, we use around 2" of substrate which replicates their natural habitat. 
  • Provide suitable hides (we like to have around 3 hides, that are just large enough to cover a scorpion. you don't want to take up too much room with hides, but multiple are necessary in our experience).
  • Flat piece of slate or cork, roughly 1.5 times the length of the scorpion in each direction - larger than this is fine, but we wouldn't recommend going smaller in case the male struggles to find an area to place his spermatophore. 
  • Water bowl, yes we are recommending one for once.
  • Heating equipment, set temperatures to the recommended temperatures of our care guide. Follow the same humidity requirements.
  • Provide day/night cycle.
  • Make sure both male and female specimen have moulted at least 2 weeks after their last moult to ensure their exoskeletons are hard. If your scorpion has only just moulted, this will give them time to develop their new exoskeleton.

 

Preparing The Mature Female:

First, feed the female until fairly "plump", this is to ensure her appetite is quite low. If this step is not taken, there is a higher risk of the female being aggressive/cannibalistic towards the male. 

Once the female specimen is fairly large, move her to the new enclosure you have set up. You'll want to give her ~ 2 weeks to ensure she is settled in. Offer food once every week during this time.

 

Introducing The Mature Male:

Once the female has settled down, it is time to introduce the male. You always want to introduce the male to the female's enclosure never the other way around. The males search for the females in the wild, and this is what you are essentially assisting with in captivity. If you reverse this, you run the risk of the male being territorial which would most likely end up with a dead male before breeding can even begin.

If the female is under one of the hides, let her be and allow the male to find her and he will remove the female from the hide after he has found her by tracking her pheromones. 

 

Promenade-a-Deux:

Scorpions mate by doing the "promenade a deux", the male and female specimen will walk backwards and forwards whilst gripping each other's pedipalp fingers. This mating sequence can last anywhere from 15 minutes, to 2 days. Keep an eye out for the male dropping the spermatophore, and the female picking it up. One of the factors in the mating ritual taking so long is that the male could have difficulty finding a suitable place to drop his spermatophore. 

The female can lose interest if the mating ritual takes too long, she will then end the pairing. If this occurs, remove the male after a day (unless they try again) and retry in around 10 days.

 

After The Male Has Dropped His Spermatophore:

After the male has dropped his spermatophore, keep an eye on the female to see if she accepts the spermatophore. 

Also watch out for any aggression, although it's uncommon for the female to cannibalise on the male (and extremely rare for the reverse), the female could become aggressive/defensive towards the male after she takes to the spermatophore. The female could have a short temper for a while.

We recommend giving it a day before removing the male and re-introducing him into his own enclosure.

 

To ensure a higher chance of a successful impregnation:

We recommend pairing the same female with either the same or different males at least 3 times to improve the chances of a successful impregnation. Give the female around 2 weeks to destress from the previous pairing to ensure the success rate before introducing a male.

 

Gestation Periods:

Scorpions have a gestation period of between 3-18 months depending on the species. 

Keep the female well-fed during the gestation periods to ensure she can provide as much nutrients for her brood as she can.

 

 

 

This is the end of our breeding guide, we hope this information helps. If you have any questions, feel free to shoot us a message on our social media (we are most active on Reddit). 

 

 

 

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