Euscorpius and Tetratrichobothrius Care Guide:

Relevant species:

Euscorpius italicus, Euscorpius carpathicus, Euscorpius scaber, Euscorpius candiota, Euscorpius tergestinus, Tetratrichobothrius flavicaudis (ex. Euscorpius flavicaudis).

Basic Care:

Venom Potency -

No in-depth research about Euscorpius and Tetratrichobothrius venom strength, however it is fairly weak - the pain is supposed to be as bad as a bee sting. 

Potential envenomation side effects may include: local pain, inflammation, swelling, itchiness/red skin, slight burning sensation, allergic reaction and anaphylaxis (extreme allergic reaction).

 

Enclosure size -

20cm(L) x20cm(W) x20cm(H)

 

Substrate - 

3" deep, they are fossorial genera (likes to hide on the surface underneath objects).

Ensure substrate is a soil based substrate, or coco fibre.

 

Temperature and Humidity - 

Temperature should be 20°C - 30°C/68°F - 86°F

Humidity should be between 70% RH - 80% RH.

 

Feeding - 

Offer food once per week for adults, and offer up to twice per week for anything less than 3i. Offer food once per week if kept solitary, twice per week if kept communally.

2i - Feed small pre-killed prey item such as a mealworm. May be best to cut a small mealworm in half.

3i - Attempt to feed small, live prey such as small mealworms. If the scorpion does not take to the prey, try pre-killing it. 

4i + - Feed live prey, no larger than 3/4 the size of the scorpion. If near pre-moult, no larger than 1/2 the size of the scorpion. 

If your scorpion does not eat for a long time (up to a year), do not stress, scorpions have a very slow metabolism; if they are not hungry they will not eat. You can always try offering different food sources, or just waiting an extra week before attempting to feed.

 

Solitary or Communal? -

We are unsure if these species do well in a communal setup or not, so we would advise against it.

 

Hides -

Always keep at least one hide in a solitary enclosure, and 3+ in a communal enclosure. For Tetratrichobothrius flavicaudis, we recommend putting some rocks together in a small vertical setup, as this species is known for being semi-arboreal as well as fossorial. This is so they can hide in the cracks between the rocks - leave enough space for them to crawl inside.

 

Water bowls -

Scorpions do not need water bowls, they receive most of their water intake from their prey. With arid scorpions, spray the side of the enclosure (glass/plastic/acrylic/material used for the enclosure) with a bit of water every 3 weeks so they can have the opportunity to drink. With humid species, they will drink from the substrate or side of the enclosure if necessary. Water bowls, if anything, are just an extra risk.

 

 

 

 

Extra information -

 

Ultra-Violet Light/Radiation - 

Avoid using UV torches/blacklights on your scorpions. Only ever use them to find your scorpion in the event of having to open the enclosure, or to take some quick photos. This is due to ultra-violet radiation being detrimental to a scorpions health. 

A scorpion's exoskeleton will fuse to it's body, resulting in the scorpion struggling to move or dying during moult. 

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