Venom Potency -

Contradicting LD50 reports. LD50 anywhere from 0.026mg/kg - 1.0mg/kg. Very potent species, most recorded fatalities within the genus. We advise you be very careful with this species.

Potential envenomation side effects may include: local intense pain, inflammation, swelling, local numbness, itchiness/red skin, burning sensation, allergic reaction, anaphylaxis (extreme allergic reaction), nausea, respiratory difficulties, muscle cramps, death (extreme cases).

Enclosure size -

20cm(L) x20cm(W) x20cm(H) Solitary. - 30cm(L) x30cm(W) x30cm(H) Communal.

Substrate - 

4" Deep as a minimum, they are a fossorial/terrestrial species (typically creates a small burrow under objects).

Ensure substrate is a soil based substrate, or coco fibre.

Temperature and Humidity - 

Temperature should be 25°C - 30°C /77°F - 86°F.

Humidity should be 70% - 80% RH.

Feeding - 

Offer food once per week for adults, and offer up to twice per week for anything less than 3i. Offer food once per week if kept solitary, twice per week if kept communally.

2i - Feed redrunner nymphs or pinhead crickets.

3i - Attempt to feed small, live prey such as small redrunners or small crickets. If the scorpion does not take to the prey, try pre-killing it. 

4i + - Feed live prey, no larger than 3/4 the size of the scorpion. If near pre-moult, no larger than 1/2 the size of the scorpion. 

If your scorpion does not eat for a long time (up to a year), do not stress, scorpions have a very slow metabolism; if they are not hungry they will not eat. You can always try offering different food sources, or just waiting an extra week before attempting to feed.

Best feeder insect options: Redrunners, crickets, locusts. These work best for semi-arboreal/arboreal species.

Solitary or Communal? -

Communal. We recommend keeping these communally as Sub-Adults/Adults only to ensure juveniles and young do not get cannibalised.

Hides -

Always keep at least one hide in a solitary enclosure, and 3+ in a communal enclosure.

Water bowls -

Scorpions do not need water bowls, they receive most of their water intake from their prey. With arid scorpions, spray the side of the enclosure (glass/plastic/acrylic/material used for the enclosure) with a bit of water every 3 weeks so they can have the opportunity to drink. With humid species, they will drink from the substrate or side of the enclosure if necessary. Water bowls, if anything, are just an extra risk.

Extra information -

Parthenogenetic Species - 

Tityus serrulatus are parthenogenetic, meaning they do not need to mate to become gravid (pregnant). We do advise that you are able to sell them once you have reached the amount you are comfortable keeping.

Ultra-Violet Light/Radiation - 

Avoid using UV torches/blacklights on your scorpions. Only ever use them to find your scorpion in the event of having to open the enclosure, or to take some quick photos. This is due to ultra-violet radiation being detrimental to a scorpions health. 

A scorpion's exoskeleton will fuse to it's body, resulting in the scorpion struggling to move or dying during moult.